Laura Mackrill

(via somethingaboutperiodmovies)

My first discovery of Steampunk was through film, mainly because of Terry Gilliam to be honest, but also from having seen Metropolis very young. Only dimly remembering this film until many years later I searched & was not disappointed upon seeing it for a second time. With Return to Oz, Brazil, parts of Baron Munchausen & Brothers Grimm & more recently Sherlock Holmes & Adele Blanc Sec, the fascination with Victorian style & design has been bubbling away as a subculture for many years now.

The Return to Oz, The Adventures of Adele Blanc Sec & The Adventures of Baron Munchausen.

In trying to discover what people think is at the heart of Steampunk I have come across many different answers. I had been exceptionally worried that, in describing what I am creating as Steampunk, I was wrong. After reading further however; I have come to the conclusion that for me at least, Steampunk is more of a feeling. I am starting with the Victorian era & redesigning it using Victorian aesthetic principles for the modern Lady or Gent. Constantly calling back to the reference style but mixing up the uses and imagining what may be useful or necessary for today’s Sci-Fi world.

Obviously I am aware that the first adventurers into this filed were Jules Verne, HG Wells & George Melies. It’s termed as retro-futurism (for example the 50s & 60s vision of the future with flying cars), & any time period can be seen through the filter of futurism… it’s just Victorian style & design through the future-filter is so beautiful!

Cover for Jules Vernes’ ‘Voyages Extraordinaires’, a still from George Melies’  ‘Journey to the Moon and a still from a 1960 adaptation of HG Wells’ ‘Time Machine’.

Historically the Victorian period was arguably the period to see the most technological advancements in such a short space of time until recently. Many aspects of our modern world were invented & designed then, & the line between period Victorian clothing & Steampunk is very narrow, oftentimes indistinguishable. Victorians imagined their own science fiction with flying machines, submarines & all manner of time & world travel. I think that what we are trying to do today is re-imagine this world into ours, translating things into a Victorian context so Steampunk becomes a blending of an alternate history & Sci-Fi, with a sprinkling of our own more interesting inventions, such as the airship, along the way.

‘The genre possesses a life of its own that draws in fans from countless directions and backgrounds into a world where fashion is tailored to the individual, goods are made to last, and machinery is still regarded as a thing of visual majesty.’

(From: http://www.tor.com/blogs/2009/10/steampunk-101)

And so I question why I am so fascinated. As a costume designer I am naturally drawn to the historical aspects of this genre, I adore the Victorian period. The adornment, pleating, silks, satins, new adventures in modern dye techniques, the manners & social decorum, the ridiculously long yet elegant mourning rituals, the ribbons & bows, the corsets & undergarments with their uncomprehendingly beautiful embellishment. I could go on & yet I could also wax lyrical for several other time periods also so again I ask: why the fascination? Could it be the fault of seeing Back to the Future Part III at an impressionable age? Maybe, but it may also be because of the diverse challenges and opportunities it represents.

Some extant illustrations and photographs showing the wonderful aray of decoration available to the Victorians.

I am a great fan of up-cycling and the neo-vintage movements &, unlike with so many other time periods, pieces from the Victorian era are readily available. I regularly use extant fabrics, ribbons, lace & other pieces in my work for Laura After Midnight, & the feeling of being able to work with these beautiful pieces is a genuinely humbling yet exciting one. I believe this may be at the heart of my love for the Victorian era.

And so I turn back to my current stitching masterpiece, a mini silk top hat complete with bias cut oversize silk bow and button on veil with vintage buttons. Adorable!

Happy stitching!

All images from Google searches and Tumblr.

Blog referenced: http://www.tor.com/blogs/2009/10/steampunk-101

FIND THIS POST AND MORE AT MY NEW BLOG:http://lauraaftermidnight.wordpress.com/

I have spent the majority of today happily sewing up Paper Tea Rose Corsages from scraps of Edwardian & Victorian lace & gorgeous cottons and silks.

I am not sure if anyone else who freelances gets a similar feeling for I have also spent the majority of today feeling a little bit guilty that all I had to do was happily sew up Paper Tea Rose Corsages!

I am slowly but surely inching closer to my goal of having enough stock made up to start selling. I find nothing sadder than seeing an online shop with just one or two things in it, & I have listed a few loose goals to hit in the first few months of starting this business up… The first being to make a series of garments, accessories and general frivolity that I have pre-designed & pattern cut in an allotted space of time (I have until next weekend eek!!), the second- travelling companion of the first- is to report progress, share pictures and techniques as I follow this progress.

All of this is to ensure I do not get too far ahead of myself & make sure I give equal thought to all aspects of this venture. I have many years experience designing & making both fashion pieces & costumes however; not many in learning to market myself so this holding period is proving useful; as I have used the time to more thoroughly research the avenues of interest out there.  Whilst I do describe what I make as Steampunk, I am interested to find that my design style is a more stripped down version of Steampunk, more precise & with fewer references to cogs!

I am also using the time to research & enjoy reading other peoples blogs, which is proving very fascinating & has sent me spinning away down paths I could not have envisaged even a few weeks ago. I am sure I shall start to reference them here, & share their thoughts as well as mine.

So, to continue the tease, a couple glimpses at the Paper Tea Rose Corsages!

Happy stitching!

SEE THIS POST AND MORE OVER AT MY NEW BLOG: lauraaftermidnight.wordpress.com

(via aristocraticelegance)

gdfalksen:

Women of the Future, c. 1902:

Doctor

(via jaborwhalky)

forgottenantiquities:

Maude Adams as L’Aiglon, 1900.

(via smatterings)

I found this article both interesting & entertaining!

As I am in the process of starting up a clothing line which is currently heavily influenced by the Steampunk and Neo-Victorian style I was interested to read that whilst a move into the mainstream would be welcomed by many; others simply view this with horror.

It is also interesting to realize quite how many things in the last few years… or indeed for many years now, have been quietly Steampunk without my noticing!

In asking myself the same question I came to the conclusion that I would like to see Steampunk continue to slowly gain momentum. It’s a movement I have enjoyed watching grow for some years now & I would be disappointed to see the bubble burst too soon as it is still something the ignorant  bystander can stumble across quite innocently & slowly submerge themselves in as I did.

Obviously I am writing this from a UK perspective where Steampunk is still very much in its infancy, I believe, so we have everything to look forward to! Clear skies for airships on the horizon indeed…

http://www.steampunk.com/where-is-steampunk-going-in-2012/

Happy stitching!

FIND THIS POST AND MORE OVER AT MY NEW BLOG: http://lauraaftermidnight.wordpress.com/

From the BBCs new series of Sherlock & it’s filmic counterpart, from The Adventures of Adele Blanc Sec to the passion for Steampunk, Victorian inspired design seems to haunt me wherever I look nowadays.

Dredging up memories of my History of Dress class at University I remember two distinct aesthetics from this period, one the reaction to the other & whilst I adore the theory & passion behind Rosetti, Morris & Burne Jones to name but a few, it is the more mainstream fashion from this time which is piquing my interest at the moment.

So it is with glee I turn to my old friends The Cut of Women’s Clothes, Corsets & Crinolines, Taste & Fashion, & the many other books I have collected over the years on this very subject. I want to refresh the basic principles you see, readdress my design ethos if you will and generally re-energize my inspiration.

In taking myself back to the source material I hope to emerge with new & interesting ideas on how to wear Victorian and Victorian inspired clothing today, & of course pick up some handy hints!

The ‘cuirasse’ bodice started the beautiful back seams of the early 1870s, in response to the need for a closer fit. The ‘front of the bodice was still fitted by darts, but as the sides were on the cross grain a horizontal waistline dart, taken from the bust dart to the side seam, lifted the material back to the straight to give a good fit around the hips’. Handy hint number one, & my thanks to The Cut of Women’s Clothes! I simply adore the labored seams in the back of the bodices from this period, they so beautifully emphasize the line & curve of a lady, & can easily be manipulated to work to her advantage.

The 1860s actually saw the first bustle skirt, & by the 1870s these only had fullness at the center back which is what we are most used to seeing nowadays. The over skirt ‘was at first just caught up on the seams, & at the back tapes were sewn inside & at the waist which, when tied together, pulled the material into puffs’. This is a tried & tested look & I am sure we have all seen modern examples of this as well as extant. The ‘fourreau’ or ‘tie-back’ dress came next which used the basic lines of the cuirasse bodice & had tapes sewn into the side seams which tied center back  to draw the dress close in to the figure; honestly some of these dresses look as wonderful on the inside as they do on the outside. Effectively the over skirt which was previously puffed now pleated and fell.

Tailor made jackets with matching skirts became the fashion in the 1880s, & it is understandable why they are the popular choice when wanting to wear something Victorian today, the cuirasse bodice cut higher on the hips to allow for the return of beautiful drapery which, in previous styles, had ‘been produced largely by the cut of the skirt itself, in the 1880′s the draperies & decorations were all separate pieces arranged on to a foundation skirt’.  Another useful insight!

What I am noticing in all of this, & have been for some time now, is the decoration, the pleats, the pin tucks, the bows & general loveliness! I find this is sometimes missing from their modern counterparts, which is a real shame as oftentimes this is the most beautiful part. I think I shall delve further into the adornment from this period, as I am finding it really most interesting.

Now, obviously I am swinging with great abandon through about 40 years of history here however; it is having the desired effect & I can feel my creative juices flowing! In my experience anything can be used for inspiration & I am currently trying to gather enough to inform my designs to move forward. In starting Laura After Midnight I thought that years of pent up frustration at having to interpret others ideas would break free & I’d easily be able to dash up a collection. This has not been the case & I find that, after a number of very frustrating weeks, I am to start from the beginning and gather inspiration as I would for any other job the only difference is that I am now the ‘Director’!

I want Laura After Midnight to do something new & different, something innovative & interesting and I am hoping that my costuming background will help. As I have said, a lot of modern Victorian reinterpretations miss out the most delightful things of this period & for this reason I am starting with pleats & pin tucks, with handmade flowers & hand stitching, with lace of all varieties & visually arresting seam lines & simple natural fabrics like lawns & silks.

I have also made the decision to start on the small things and work my way up… expect my range of silk flower corsages, mini top hats & other frippery & finery to adorn & delight to come out in the next few weeks.

Following that, I have some rather exciting ideas for waistcoats I cannot wait to get started!

Happy stitching!

FIND THIS POST AND MORE OVER AT MY NEW BLOG: http://lauraaftermidnight.wordpress.com/

After gaining the miraculous opportunity to start my own label a couple months ago work has finally started here at Laura After Midnight!

Here is a tantalizing glimpse under our petticoats…

Sneak peaks include The London Smoke Ribbon Corset, Coaldust Spats & Snowhite Bolero. Details coming soon.

Happy stitching!

SEE THIS POST AND MORE OVER AT MY NEW BLOG: lauraaftermidnight.wordpress.com

Oh my god, I’m in love!!

(Source: omgthatdress, via somethingaboutperiodmovies)